Route: The Dalles to Hood River, OR
Since she started riding with us in Walla Walla, my sister
Becky has had eight flats on the rear tire of her bike. We patched some tubes, replaced others,
looked for embedded glass or goatheads in the tire, but could not figure out
what was going on. Before leaving The
Dalles this morning, we brought her bike to Salmon Cyclery, where the owner
Dave (who is a competitive Master’s cyclist and a volcanologist – how cool is
he?) injected sealant into the rear tube that would automatically fill any
small puncture. We were only a few miles
out of town when the tire got another flat, despite the sealant. Frustrated, we made our way back to Salmon
Cyclery, where Dave diagnosed the problem: with the extra weight of the
panniers, the rim tape was not strong enough to protect the tube from the heads
of the spokes, which punctured the tube when the wheel when over bumps. We replaced the rim tape, and finally got
under way at 1:30 p.m.
We only cycled about 25 miles today, but they were among the
most beautiful miles of this entire trip.
We followed the Historic Columbia River Highway, which was completed in
1922, the first paved highway in the Pacific Northwest. The route has been
designated a National Scenic Byway, meaning the road itself is considered a
destination. Most motorists take the
flat, efficient I-84 that runs beside the Columbia River. We were passed only occasionally by vehicles
as we made our way up the long, winding climb in the shadows of towering basalt
cliffs. The climb was physically taxing,
but we were rewarded for our effort with stunning views of the Columbia River Gorge
from Rowena Crest. From this viewpoint,
we could easily discern the transition from the rocky, arid countryside we’ve
been cycling through for the past week to lush, wet tree-covered landscapes
typical of the Pacific Northwest. It was
almost as if someone had drawn a crooked line down the steep slopes to
delineate the two radically different climates.
The dry bunchgrass prairies to the east were replaced with lush
grasslands, dense fir trees and trickling waterfalls to the west.
We pedaled through the small town of Mosier with plans to
take the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail, which is designated for
cyclists and pedestrians only. However,
I missed the turnoff for the trail and led our hardy crew up a steep, 2-mile
dirt road climb to nowhere. I finally
realized my mistake, and we walked our bikes back down the steep, slippery
slope. Becky, Sho and Saya did not complain about the wasted effort, but I was annoyed at myself for missing the turn -- it was pretty obvious once we found it. Today
was one of those days when you just don’t cover much distance, despite your
best efforts.
The views of the Columbia River Gorge from the trail were
breathtaking, but Sho and Saya decided that their favorite part of the ride
were the Mosier Twin Tunnels. Near the tunnel
entrance, the wall is engraved with the words: “Snowbound: Nov 19 – 27, 1921”
next to the names of people trapped in the tunnel by a blizzard and
avalanche. Locals from Mosier eventually
rescued the people, arriving with flasks of brandy to lift their spirits.
I chose to lift my spirits with a Belgian blonde beer in Hood River, where we spent the night, hoping for more efficient
travel in the morning.
Here are some pics:
With Dave after diagnosing the flat tire drama
Sho
Saya
With my sister Becky at Rowena Crest
Sho, Saya, Becky
Snowbound!
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